Piston and babbit!

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Abakca
Posts: 17
Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2024 11:20 pm
First Name: Alfredo
Last Name: Lira
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1920 touring
Location: Keaau, Hawaii

Piston and babbit!

Post by Abakca » Sun Oct 05, 2025 9:28 pm

Babbit looks new on all except for piston 2. Piston 1 skirt looks like wtf happened here?
Follow the link and let me know what you guys think please!
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1FSp8Bh1dc/


Scott_Conger
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First Name: Scott
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Re: Piston and babbit!

Post by Scott_Conger » Sun Oct 05, 2025 10:25 pm

If I have to go to facebook to see your problem, I'm going to just nope right out of here

MTFCA spends the money to put up and maintain a Forum, an administrator deals with BOTS and goofballs constantly, and you use it to redirect us to the biggest collection of condensed ignorance in the world?

Not a chance

You might actually consider posting pix and info here or risk losing this audience. At the very least it would show some modicum of respect for MTFCA and the posters here.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


Art Ebeling
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Re: Piston and babbit!

Post by Art Ebeling » Mon Oct 06, 2025 8:35 am

That rod babbit looks similar to what I posted two days ago about a number two rod babbit failure. Art


TXGOAT2
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First Name: Pat
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Re: Piston and babbit!

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Oct 06, 2025 8:58 am

The piston is scored badly. The cause could be improper piston or ring fit, a bent rod, piston pin too tight, or lack of oil. Overheating is another possibility, but given that the #2 rod bearing is completely burned out, I suspect improper fit/installation issues, or someone ran the engine without oil, or someone put heavy oil in a newly rebuilt engine and fired it up on a cold morning and raced it to "break it in right". It looks to me like you will need to do an in-chassis overhaul at the very least. If no reliable history is available, it would probably be best to remove the engine/transmission assembly and ship it to a competent rebuilder, unless you are willing and able and equipped to do the work yourself. The car looks good, from what I can see, but it certainly looks as if engine work was not done correctly, or the engine has been abused in some way, such as severe overheating or run with a lack of oil, or run hard after a rebuild without proper break-in.


Lil Teezy
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Re: Piston and babbit!

Post by Lil Teezy » Mon Oct 06, 2025 10:12 am

I’m with Scott on this one, but unfortunately people just don’t think that way anymore. More likely to be considered inappropriate for complaining, or bringing it up than for disrespecting the effort that goes into this site in the first place. $#!tty aspect of today’s world but most folks would wonder what “problem” we’re even talking about… -Grouchy old Chris, in Boulder


speedytinc
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Location: orange, ca
Board Member Since: 2020

Re: Piston and babbit!

Post by speedytinc » Mon Oct 06, 2025 10:33 am

I also dont do fake book.
Based on Pat's description, I can add recent experience.
I had a T motor come in seized. Primarily from head gasket leaks that rusted & stuck #4 piston.
During the tear down & rebuild I discovered #1 piston & bore severely scored. (original iron pistons)
Fortunately babbit was savable with shim removal & time saver.

As always the why is important.
In this case the inside oil funnel was completely clogged with chunks of carbon & paraffin based oil.


TXGOAT2
Posts: 7818
Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:08 pm
First Name: Pat
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Re: Piston and babbit!

Post by TXGOAT2 » Mon Oct 06, 2025 11:47 am

Someone may have fit aluminum pistons to the original Ford spec, which is for cast iron pistons and is too tight for aluminum pistons. New pistons in a worn and out of round bore can also cause trouble, as can new pistons fitted in a tapered bore. Model T transmissions have some critical fits, and if the engine guy also worked on the transmission, it probably needs to be assessed.

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