Crank handle ratchet
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Topic author - Posts: 42
- Joined: Fri Apr 05, 2019 5:52 am
- First Name: Brendan
- Last Name: Hoban
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 22 Touring
- Location: Mornington
Crank handle ratchet
I have fitted an adjustable crank T-3963-AX pulley to the crankshaft and now the ratchet only just connects, it mostly slips off.
What have I done that's wrong?
What have I done that's wrong?
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- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Tomaso
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring, 1919 Centerdoor, 1924 TT C-Cab Express, 1925 Racer
- Location: Longbranch, WA
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Crank handle ratchet
I don't believe you did anything wrong - I think the issue could be the thickness of the new aluminum pulley not letting the teeth of the ratchet fully engage - you might consider "shortening/grinding" the teeth end just wee a bit so as to verify positive engagement. Perhaps someone else might have some suggestions to remedy your dilemma.
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- First Name: Adam
- Last Name: Doleshal
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Re: Crank handle ratchet
If the front of your pan is bent a bit, the ratchet will interfere with the thicker hub on the aluminum pulley.
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- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
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Re: Crank handle ratchet
Some of the pulleys were not machined deep enough for the ratchet to engage completely with the pin, you may have gotten one of those. You could also have a badly worn ratchet, the ends are so worn they no longer cradle the pin.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
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Re: Crank handle ratchet
Your best way to go is to use an original Ford pulley. I have stock pulleys on all of my T's with no problems.
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- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
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Re: Crank handle ratchet
Larry is correct, but if you fitted a flanged lower pulley to stop the belt running off, you may have to pay attention to the fan arm and shaft to get the correct alignment for the belt.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- First Name: Dick
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Re: Crank handle ratchet
Speaking from painful experience, put an original pulley on and use a new ratchet. I bought a 1915 touring several years ago from a local "old timer" who came to a meeting of old cars every year. When he arrived I walked over to great him and asked how he was. He said he was doing ok but this would be his last outing because he was getting too old and couldn't crank it anymore. Bought it on the spot. I put it in the barn and several days later went to take it out to test drive it. Engaged the crank and proceeded to do a quarter turn, my other T's start this way. The crank slipped and the back of my had wacked the head light. It hurt! Tried it again and the same thing happened. It really hurt!!! Not one to give up easily, I did it AGAIN. That really, really hurt!!! Went to the house and soaked my hand that resembled a catchers mitt. The problem I found out was the pawls on the ratchet were worn off and would not hold onto the pin. I too looked into the new adjustable pulley when I was replacing the ratchet. I found out as the guys above related that the new aluminum pulley sold by several suppliers would not work. The rest of the story is that I have had to replace two knuckles on my right hand and I believe this experience caused the problem. This is a long story to tell you that I would not fool with the ratchet if it didn't get securely attached to the pin. Best wishes, Dick C.
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Re: Crank handle ratchet
Often times the old pulley is worn in the holes and it is well and good if you have a stash of NOS or good used ones, but unless you can braze/weld and have a lathe to resize the hole or know someone, you can be fighting the same loose pulley problem with another used one. Lot's of times because the pulley has been working back and forth the crank is worn too. I have tried the shim route, lots of work getting everything fitted. Because the aluminum type clamps to the crank, it becomes a good work around.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 148
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- First Name: Jeff
- Last Name: Lee
- Location: Nova Scotia
Re: Crank handle ratchet
Hi All
I had the same problem with a new aluminum clamping pulling on my '15.
The pin hole is slightly too far back in the pulley. I decided not to try to cut the center out deeper using my lathe as it didn't look too thick in the back wall.
I elected to take a spare ratchet and slowly file part of the tips of the ratchets down until the ratchet would catch solidly on the crank pin.
Not an ideal solution, but it does work and its tight on the worn end of the crankshaft so no rattles any more.
Jeff
Nova Scotia
I had the same problem with a new aluminum clamping pulling on my '15.
The pin hole is slightly too far back in the pulley. I decided not to try to cut the center out deeper using my lathe as it didn't look too thick in the back wall.
I elected to take a spare ratchet and slowly file part of the tips of the ratchets down until the ratchet would catch solidly on the crank pin.
Not an ideal solution, but it does work and its tight on the worn end of the crankshaft so no rattles any more.
Jeff
Nova Scotia