1916 Distributor and Battery Installation

[The Newb]

I recently inherited a 1916 Ford Model T from my great grandfather. It has been a blast getting to know the car but I have never dealt with cars and all my learning is by reading online posts and watching youtube posts. The car has been sitting for over 50 years but is in pretty good shape nonetheless. From what I gather there's a great debate between sticking with the magneto/coil boxes and installing a battery. I'm not sure the condition of my coil boxes as I don't have a tester and am yet to start the car (awaiting arrival of new spark plugs). I would like my posterity to be able to drive the car so it's seems a good option to add a battery. My 1916 did not come with a battery and the rear floorboard does not open (I've read that some T's rear floor board can be pulled out but mine can't). I purchased this distributor that is being shipped:

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... utor-timer

and am looking into purchasing this to mount the battery:

https://www.macsautoparts.com/model-t-b ... 816-1.html

A couple questions: (1) I'd rather not have cut the floor board to create an access point for the battery, would you recommend a different location/holder than the one in the above link, (2) I read somewhere that someone was able to install the above rack and not cut the floor board but I wasn't sure how he got a battery in there without being able to access it from the top - anyone have experience in this area?, (3) does someone mind sharing an exact 12v battery (with a link) I should purchase? I'm not planning on using charge for anything other than lights and maybe a horn, and (4) with the distributor I purchased the wire kit, a 12v coil, and a coil bracket - is there anything else I'm missing that I'll need in order to make the battery start the car and run lights??

I really appreciate any help - I am totally new to this all but excited to learn and get this car running!

[Allan]

Taylor, on my 1912 van I have a 12 amp motorcycle battery mounted in a separate compartment next to the fuel tank under the front seat. It has been that way for 27 years, and I am on my third battery. It powers the ignition system and indicators and brake lights, works for two days of city driving, and is kept charged in the garage at the end of each day.
If you want to run headlights for any length of time, you may need a larger battery, or LED headlight globes. The ultimate solution may be an Optima battery, on its side, under the back seat. That will even power a starter if you go that route.

Others will have different solutions.

Allan from own under.

[John Illinois]

An Odyssey PC 680 is a very compact AGM battery. It can be mounted in any position. I have had one in my hot rod for 5 years. Should be perfect for a T ignition. They provide the case shown. Starts a Flathead V8 easily.


John

[JRSpada4]

Congratulations on your acquisition. Do you know the condition of your magneto? If it has even decent output, I would suggest having your coils rebuilt and running it that way. Most rebuilders charge about $40 per coil plus shipping. If you were to go that route, you could install a small lawnmower battery under the rear seat and just use it to fire the coils for starting. I’m not familiar enough with the earlier touring cars, but on starter cars, the battery bracket is positioned directly under the rear floorboards, so access is pretty open when you lift out the floor. If your magneto is working, there is a hot shot kit that is attached to the mag post that will trickle charge your battery. I would think even a small battery would power turn signals (if you add them).

[babychadwick]

That distributor will only work if you already have a front plate made for it, an accessory not factory.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/BO-CAST.aspx

If your T has a correct year engine a front plate will not work as they are for a later block with a generator. You would need a distributor that replaces a timer.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/DT-CLB.aspx
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... hByKeyword
http://www.texastparts.com/mm5/merchant ... ory_Code=m

[Scott_Conger]

Welcome to the world of "T"s.

Reread what Jim had to say about coils. Your car was made to run on original coils and WILL run on original coils

Being a nice car with a good long family history, it would be a shame to start cutting it up, adding batteries (how will you charge it?) and adding a distributor all in the first few months of ownership of a vehicle which has survived thus far but may not survive intact through your learning period.

It's an antique...over 100 years old, and has some technology which makes it different from today's cars, but then , what fun would it be to drive around in Great-Grandfather's old Honda?

I encourage you to study, join a club, meet some folks who can get the car at least RUNNING and see what it REALLY needs...right now, it doesn't really need a distributor...you WANT a distributor and I believe that is because that is what you understand. A little education and understanding of the technology of the day can potentially lead you to a great appreciation of those who came before us.

And BTW, if you believe a distributor will make the car run better than with 4 rebuilt coils. you are operating under a mistaken assumption.

Welcome to the affliction!

[The Newb]

Hey guys - appreciate all your responses. Jim/Scott I agree with you and would honestly love to keep it running on the coils. The main reason I am considering adding the battery is because my uncle remodeled a 1915 and he said that his vision for the car was so all grandchildren could drive the car and that the battery option made things simpler (I understand that's debatable but seems to make sense for his situation). The local Model T chapter told him the best way to go was to add the battery. However, his already had the parts ready for a battery installation and mine does not (the battery holder under the rear seat and the front plate for the distributor). I would love to keep with the coils so if there is a way to keep the coils and run headlights and tail lights and keep things simple for posterity than lets do it!

Jim - I wanted to clarify what you said about sticking with magneto. So if I do run off coils then you are suggesting I install the battery holder under the rear seats and buy a hot shot kit such as:

https://www.modeltford.com/item/HOT-SHOT-C.aspx

Is there anything else I would need?? Would this be enough to run my headlights? Also is there a coil rebuilder anyone would recommend? I've seen the coil testers and would love to own one but they are so pricey - does anyone have a strong opinion about owning a tester vs not?

Also, I joined my local model t club but haven't received much help because the head is out most of the summer. Been piecing people's advice here and there but haven't been able to get someone to see my car hands on.

[speedytinc]

Does your magneto work? How much voltage @ speed? A good magneto will run the coils & charge a battery.(with a little magic)

[TRDxB2]

MyOP - I have a period correct distributor because my engine has no magneto and if I chose I can use an original coil with it but chose not to. Having said that, with your objectives in mind "would like my posterity to be able to drive the car" I would opt to do the following.
1. Return the distributor you purchased , as stated above its not the correct solution for the engine you have. If you do go with one you want a Clip On style. Also return the battery holder or sell here or on eBay - If you need to go with a battery do the AGM mounting explained above.
2. The distributor decision is based on a the cost of having a working magneto and coils or wanting to be "original". There is a simple resistance test to see if a coil is good enough to try (not saying that if it passes this test that it doesn't need tuning). http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1364507902
3. Now if they passed the test then try getting your car to start. If you need help someone in UT may be close by to help.
If you got it started then some more basic testing http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1485572212
4. Now that you know what you got you can make an economic decision on which way to go.
Some of the thrill of owning a Model T is getting it started with the hand crank - cherish that feeling.

[Scott_Conger]

Getting a T to run on a battery does not require a group 1 automotive battery under the floorboards. Other suggestions for a MUCH smaller battery which can easily fit under the seat or elsewhere will work fine and definitely aid in starting.

4 rebuilt coils, a good or rebuilt carb and clean fuel tank and possibly a new timer and wiring loom combined with good intake seals will very likely have the car running on battery. From there you can investigate if the magneto works. If it does, then you're in business and can plan on using a small battery to aid starting and then run on MAG.

You may eventually go to a distributor, but in my opinion that would be AFTER you know what you have to work with and WHY you need it. You would need it if nearly every aspect of the magneto, coil, coil box and timer was in a state of failure and you were unwilling or unable to remedy it. Everything short of rebuilding the internal MAG coil is by itself, a pleasant 1 day job.

The crux of it, is you should allow yourself to understand the vehicle, the technology, and find out the ACTUAL state of the car you inherited and make modifications on sound reasoning that you can justify and not just because the last guy you talked to said "it'll never run right until it has a distributor".

as far as everyone being able to drive it, you have to start it, and a distributor will NOT make cranking any easier than original coils. You still have to pull that thing out front. A properly set up car will start in 2 or possibly 3 pulls in most cases once you know how the car responds to the choke and ambient temperature at your location.

Have fun and happy investigating!

[Erik Johnson]

I would actually try starting the engine before doing any type of modifications and spending a lot of time and money.

You can get a six volt lantern battery at the hardware store. That's enough to get the coils buzzing to start it on BAT. Then, switch over to MAG and see if it runs.

Your car may simply need a tune up: carb cleaning, timer cleaning or replacement and coil tune up. If you live near someone who is in the Model T hobby, borrow a set of coils just to get the car running.

Once you get it running, then you can "sort it out."

As far as non-starter/generator Model T Fords are concerned: many folks have a small battery under the front seat just like folks did 100 years ago. They used dry-cells/hot shot batteries (my dad was still using them in the 1950s, 60s and 70s). Today, folks like me use small rechargeable 6 volt lead acid gel cell batteries. Mine is from a Fisher-Price Power Wheels ride-on toy. My brother used to work for FAO Schwartz and he gave me a few for free many years ago. They last many years and charge using a small transformer.

[ewdysar]

I recently inherited a 1916 Ford Model T from my great grandfather. It has been a blast getting to know the car but I have never dealt with cars and all my learning is by reading online posts and watching youtube posts. The car has been sitting for over 50 years but is in pretty good shape nonetheless. From what I gather there's a great debate between sticking with the magneto/coil boxes and installing a battery. I'm not sure the condition of my coil boxes as I don't have a tester and am yet to start the car (awaiting arrival of new spark plugs).

I’m pretty surprised that nobody has said anything about the fact that the car has been sitting and not started for 50 years. Given that, asking questions like “does it run on mag?” or “how much voltage does the mag produce?” seem like we’re getting ahead of ourselves. I’ve read countless posts here about the kinds of things that should be done before one tries to wake up a T after a half century slumber, but in this thread, towards someone with virtually no prior T experience, nothing. Weird. Personally, I’m not experienced in doing this kind of resuscitation, I trailered my Dad’s touring to Loco Larry’s after just 30 years of storage, and he called me when it was ready.

Do any of the experts here want to start over with some more specific suggestions to address this situation? Or maybe it’s ok to just gas ‘er up, and give it a go…

Keep crankin’
Eric

[babychadwick]

Well said Eric

[JRSpada4]

Eric- good point. There is an excellent checklist for bringing a T out of “mothballs”. It frequently shows up in discussions in the forum. Here is a link from a past discussion:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/8538.html

Taylor- being a 1916, your car’s headlights should be wired to run off of the magneto, so adding a battery won’t help with that unless you rewire them. They’d originally be wired in series from the switch and grounded to the frame. To convert to 6 or 12v headlamps, you’ll need to rewire the switch so that its power comes from a battery, and then wire the headlamps individually in parallel from the switch. A larger battery than one for a lawnmower would probably be needed. The hotshot charging kit would charge the battery a little, but if you run your headlights a lot, you’ll probably need to plug it in at the end of the day.

The lights I mentioned were turn signal/hazard lights (if you decide to add them). Those would run just fine off of a small lawnmower battery under the seat. The smaller battery would also be enough to fire the coils to start the engine and then switch over to mag to run. I think it’s also important to mention that Ts are easy to start with the hand crank if your fuel and ignition systems are in good working order. My 85 lb 11 year old can hand crank mine (with supervision, of course).

Once you get the car running, you can better assess where you are and where you need to go next. With the engine running, there is a simple setup to measure the mag output. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 760271.pdf If it runs on mag, you can probably save yourself a lot of money by fine tuning the original setup. My first T had a weak mag when I bought it, but it still ran better on it than it did on a 6v battery. There is also a procedure to recharge a weak mag with it in the car, but that’s a longer discussion for its own thread. There have been several discussions on it already, if you want to search the forum.

[Steve Jelf]

A disturbutor is not an upgrade. it's just different. You do NOT need it if you want to use a battery. The reason for adding a battery to your non-starter car is to start the car with less physical exertion than starting without it requires. If you look at the ignition switch, you'll see that it has two ON positions: MAG and BAT. Ford did not supply a battery with your car, but they were realistic enough to know that a lot of people would prefer the easier starting provided by a battery, and they provided a switch setting for it. When you start on MAG you have to turn the magneto fast enough to generate enough voltage to fire the plugs. When you start on BAT the battery supplies all the voltage you need, and you don't need to pull the crank with any great speed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pv6HWWOGYA

Once the car is started, it will likely run better when you switch over to MAG because the magneto supplies more voltage than the battery when the car is running.

Without having to turn a starter motor, your 1916 doesn't need a full sized automotive battery. A smaller one that fits under the back seat will be quite adequate. My 1915 runabout has no back seat, so my little battery is mounted in the frame rail. I've added a little charger powered by the magneto. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html

I agree with Scott that it's not a good idea to start making big changes to the Ford design before you learn about it. In the case of the ignition system, as with many other aspects of the Model T, many "improvements" really aren't.

Here's another page with Milt Webb's checklist. You can skip the starter stuff, of course. http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG93.html

I expect your posterity will be just as capable of learning to drive a stock Model T as many millions have done for the past 112 years.

[Norman Kling]

I would suggest that you first try to find a club member who lives in your area, and if there is a club in your area or even in your state to join it. Find someone to help you check out the coils. If you can't find one, there is the Coil Doctor advertised on the forum, who can for a price rebuild the coils.
Second, unless the fuel system was completely drained, before the car was stored, you might need to either clean the tank or replace the gas tank, because old gas hardens like epoxy and clogs everything up. You might need to replace the fuel line from the tank to the carburetor and thoroughly clean the sediment bulb located under the tank where the fuel line is attached. Also the carburetor needs to be cleaned or replaced with a known good carburetor. Then you can connect a 6 volt or even 12 volt battery to the battery side of the ignition switch. Be sure you do NOT connect any battery voltage to the magneto. If you do you could damage the magneto! change the oil and coolant and then try to start the engine. Note, you might have a tight engine or stuck valve from setting so long, especially if some coolant leaked into the cylinders. So if the engine will turn over with the crank or by towing in high gear, try to start the engine.
If it runs, then you can switch to magneto and if you are lucky it will run on magneto.
Any change to a distributor, seems to cause more cars to drop out of tours, because either the gear to the distributor disengages, or something in the distributor goes bad and no one has parts to fix it including the nearest auto parts store, unless you order it. So if you do place a distributor, be sure to carry along a complete set of replacement parts, because there are many different distributors used on T's and you need to have the spare parts which will fit the one you use.
Norm

[MKossor]

Another alternative to Distributor is the E-Timer Electronic ignition that performs equal to or better than the distributor without sacrificing original appearance. It's a drop in replacement for the stock Timer that also runs on battery (6V to 12V) but retains the use of stock Model T coils, the original wiring, provides Automatic Timing Advance AND is completely maintenance free! More information about the E-Timer can be found here: www.modeltetimer.com

[TRDxB2]

I recently inherited a 1916 Ford Model T from my great grandfather. It has been a blast getting to know the car but I have never dealt with cars and all my learning is by reading online posts and watching youtube posts. The car has been sitting for over 50 years but is in pretty good shape nonetheless. From what I gather there's a great debate between sticking with the magneto/coil boxes and installing a battery. I'm not sure the condition of my coil boxes as I don't have a tester and am yet to start the car (awaiting arrival of new spark plugs). I would like my posterity to be able to drive the car so it's seems a good option to add a battery. My 1916 did not come with a battery and the rear floorboard does not open (I've read that some T's rear floor board can be pulled out but mine can't). I purchased this distributor that is being shipped:
.....
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... butor-time
https://www.macsautoparts.com/model-t-b ... 5816-1.htm
I really appreciate any help - I am totally new to this all but excited to learn and get this car running!

Thought I'd summarize popular suggestions:
1. bringing a T out of “mothballs” - http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/8538.html
- join a local chapter if available or find a mentor to confer with
2. Try to get the car started with what you have.
- return the distributor because its not the type you can use anyway
- return the battery holder because it will not be needed going with magneto or distributor
3. Whatever you invest in coils will be easy to recover if you change direction (always a market for test equipment, rebuilt coils etc) A bad Magneto is another story all depends on what needs to be done and will be the decision point because of the cost involved.
4. All you need is a battery under the seat. Doesn't need to a full sized one to get the car started or to run. The CCA spec is for a starter car in cold weather. The spec AH, ampere hours, tells you how much juice is available for how long. So if you need 10 amps to run the car, 240AH battery would give you about 20 hours of continuous run time (uncharged) - there are ways to charge a battery via the magneto.
5. Adding accessories that reduce experience, maintenance, adjustments and provide safety is always a good idea for future generations. Keep a log book for the posterity -what you've done, routine maintenance needs, how to get it started and how to drive it.
-

[aDave]

Taylor,
Your sentence:
The main reason I am considering adding the battery is because my uncle remodeled a 1915 and he said that his vision for the car was so all grandchildren could drive the car and that the battery option made things simpler"

deserves a little more thought.

In my opinion the greatest deterrent to the enjoyment of the grandchildren is not so much starting the Model T as it is DRIVING it.....including accelerating from a dead stop, SHIFTING and eventual stopping. The T is VERY different than modern autos.

To really enjoy the experience of operating a Model T, - especially one that has been in your family, consider doing as the others suggest - get the car working with what is on it now.....learn how to drive it yourself, THEN, if you so desire, and IF you really think it will aid the next generation in enjoying the car without detracting from its uniqueness, then go for your modifications. You cannot easily undo what you are about to do.
ALSO...return that distributer while you are still able to get credit for an unused item.

Good Luck,

Dave

[Steve Jelf]

Norm's comment about disturbutors going south on tours reminds me that I have never been stuck by the side of the road because of the Model T ignition system. I HAVE been stuck by the side of the road, more than once, because of the distributor ignition systems on my more modern Chevrolet and Dodge.

[TRDxB2]

Here's the setup
by Steve Jelf » Tue Apr 13, 2021 12:15 pm
I use a small six volt battery strapped in the frame rail of my 1915 mostly to buzz the coils for starting. I use the stock mag headlights, but run tail lights off the battery which is charged by the magneto with a home made charger using John Regan's design. I've added a converter for 12 volts to charge my phone and Garmin. I plan to install LED turn signals, using the side lamps in front and a pair of T-era-looking tail lights in back. Maybe I'll even get fancy and add a brake light.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html

bat.png (612.63 KiB) Viewed 6145 times

Hi-Tech kit available to charge the battery from the magneto

[Steve Jelf]

I'm currently working on the tail/brake lights and turn signals. I'll post pictures when I get a little farther along.

[Duey_C]

Shoot, even a small fish locater battery from the hardware store will give you electricity to run the coils already in place.
I have my little battery behind the gas tank in the toolbox. Works great until running then I switch to the magneto.
Gosh that would work if you put in a distributer too. Had to get a new battery last Wednesday. 25 bucks. Vroom.
Do remember that not everyone had a coil tester nearby and they went by the sound of the buzz on each coil. Me too for many years.
Clean those points with a diamond hone or I've even used worn out 320 and much finer grit sandpaper. Clean the crud off ruthlessly.
Coil files are far too rough.
There should be a terminal on your coil box to wire in a battery for your start-up and I use one the mag contact screws for the ground. Heck, on a friend's '25 it came with a couple of wires and clips hanging out of the coil box and he uses a drill battery to start it (with the crank) then switches to magneto.
Whichever way to choose to go with ignition system it'll run.
I worry about your choice of distributors Taylor. That one is meant for a T that already has a distributor.
If going 12 Volt distributor, I've used a Texas T Parts unit that clamps on and have gotten years of good service from it.
These cars are so different from the normal and a treat to drive.

[The Newb]

I really appreciate everyone taking time to share their opinion and advice. A lot of good suggestions and things to think about. I have performed the following and am curious where you would suggest I go next:

1. Checked my spark plugs and not all we were working so I installed new spark plugs
2. Replaced the disintegrated fan belt
3. Changed the oil
4. Added water to the radiator
5. Inspected and cleaned the carburetor
6. Added gas
7. Tried starting the car on magneto with no success - the handle turns fine and carburetor was working fine
8. Someone suggested (I'm sure there's other much safer methods but I was told this was a quick, easy and dirty way to test!!!) I get one person to slightly turn the crank while I hold the end the wire connecting magneto to the coils. Unfortunately (and luckily...??) I was not shocked and felt no shock after multiple cranks. I was told if I were shocked then magneto was at least slightly working, but I felt nothing.

It appears my magneto is not functioning... So from what it seems like I now have a decision to make between trying to fix magneto or going down the route of adding battery. What would you suggest I do from this point? What should be my next decision flow chart? Is there anything else I should test before adding a battery and anything else necessary to provide power to my coils?

[Scott_Conger]

Taylor

My experience is that when the engine is new and MAG is working correctly, you need to know exactly where the spark lever should be and how much *SNAP* you need to put on the crank (and when) when starting. This can only be learned through experience, on a car known to start thusly.

That said, it takes about 3 years with regular driving to wear the engine sufficiently to where it will NEVER start on MAG, but once started with a battery, will run just fine on MAG. There is no point explaining the "whys or wherefores" at this point...you're still overwhelmed with dealing with 100 year old technology which contains many logic traps...what seems obvious on the face of things often is wildly off base. Keep at it, and learn to search the forum on various topics: "MTFCA mag voltage" for example, or "MTFCA 4th main wear mag". Either search or others like it, will provide volumes of reading material each night.

Your MAG may be dead, or it may be just like 99+% of all used/running T's that need the POP of a battery powered spark plug to get going and switch to MAG after that.

[John Codman]

Just my two cents worth: The best possible way to determine what you have and what you need is to go slow. As has been said earlier, you need to determine whether the magneto is good or not. When I first got my T home it ran fairly well on battery (mine's a '27) and it did run on Magneto, but poorly. After spending a bit of time chasing my tail, I went back to basics and started checking all of the wiring connections. I discovered that the wire to the Magneto post was loose at the mag post. I took the wire off the post using no tools, I carefully cleaned the connection and reinstalled the wire. The car now ran as well on Magneto as it did on battery. I still wasn't satisfied and took a look at the timer which was in bad shape inside. I purchased a new timer from Lang's and installed it. The T now runs quite well on battery and beautifully on Mag. About a year ago I decided to send the coils out to Ron Patterson for rebuilding. It turns out that my coils were Mexican-made and not really rebuildable. Ron sold me five originals that he had rebuilt; I installed them and the T runs perfectly. I see no evidence that the engine has been out of the car or rebuilt, so it is still running on it's 94 year-old magneto. The T's stock ignition system is very reliable; the only reason to install a distributor is if the magneto has failed. The magneto ignition system is a major part of what makes a T a T. I would also think long and hard about installing a distributor in a non-starter T.

[DHort]

Taylor is south of Salt Lake City. Anyone live close to there or knows someone near Salt Lake city that can help him.

There is a Utah chapter and an Idaho chapter, but I do not know if they are active.

Might be time for a road trip.

[Scott_Conger]

To add to what John mentioned above, one of the great things about coils on my car and many others, is that once you choke the car for 2-3 compressions on the crank, walk back to the car and turn the ignition switch to BAT, by the time I get back to the front of the car, often times it is already running.

A car with a distributor will never do that.

Search "MTFCA free start" or just go here: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1471725468

Once a car has been run and has a charge of fuel in a cylinder, you don't even have to pull the crank through. See video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIKGI5qTc_I

[The Newb]

Taylor is south of Salt Lake City. Anyone live close to there or knows someone near Salt Lake city that can help him.

There is a Utah chapter and an Idaho chapter, but I do not know if they are active.

Might be time for a road trip.

Dhort - I've been trying to contact the local chapter president to no avail. He responded once saying he was gone camping for few weeks but nothing since then. It would be great to get some local help - that's why I joined the Model T Club.

[Scott_Conger]

Taylor

that type of response is unfortunately all too often given. As the charter member of a very successful club, and President of that club until I moved to WY, I will say that the very best way to kill an organization is to be absolutely ambivalent to a T owner's needs (particularly someone new in the hobby!) and so dismissive of them that no alternative contact is given out. I am VERY sorry to hear of such shabby, if not entirely uncommon experience with the locals. When I was active with my old club there was NO WAY you would have gotten off of the phone with me, regardless of what I was doing, without at least receiving 2-3 names and numbers of someone I trusted to help you out ASAP.

Additionally, I am absolutely SHOCKED that Chapters of the National Organization(s) often list their Officers' names with absolutely ZERO contact information included beyond the area that they serve. If I was the Grand Poobah, that Chapter would NOT be listed in the National Club's website UNLESS there was contact info. Recognize them, insure them? Sure. Advertise that they exist and then deny anyone the ability to contact them? Absolutely not. Clubs and their Chapters do not exist for the purpose of remaining unaccountable and anonymous.

Rant over...

[TXGOAT2]

A stock Model T ignition system in good condition is quite reliable. It can run off a battery, whether six, eight, or 12 volt or even a 24 volt, or off the magneto, and it offers the option of being able to start and run the car even if the battery, if any, is stone dead, or if the starter, if any, is disabled. It also offers the "free start" on cars with a battery, by which the car will often start instantly simply by turning on the ignition key, without using either the electric starter or the hand crank. Thus is adapted to starting the car via the electric starter, if equipped, or by using the hand crank, or by pushing or pulling the car or, as likely as not, the "free start". It has 4 separate coils, each with its own set of breaker points and condenser, making it highly unlikely that the failure of a coil or points or condenser will disable the car. Beyond that, it's part of what sets the Model T apart from other cars, and part of what makes driving one an engaging experience. I would suggest obtaining a copy of the Ford owner's manual for your car and reading it. There are several important safety considerations that are specific to the Model T, using the hand crank being but one of them. Anyone driving a Model T needs to be aware of the limitations of the braking system and the safe and proper use of the unusual driver controls and the facts about the steering system, such as never going fast in reverse and the very fast steerig gear ratio.

[Original Smith]

Since 1916's didn't come with a distributor there shouldn't be a problem. Just follow the Ford service book or a Dykes book.