My new T

[gjohnson351]

Hello everyone,
I would first like to say this forum has been a big help with lots of my questions. I recently inherited this 1926 coupe from my grandfather Engine serial # 5941325 Frame serial #13654295. My grandfather had found this car in a field in the 60's. When I got it, It had not been started since the 90's. I have gotten it running and driving. But the steering was so loose it had bad wobbling. So currently I have the front end tore all apart and have been replacing the bushings ,leaf springs and perches. I have also relined the rear brakes. I am getting used to working on such an old car... So many cotter pins . I am more used to my 1970 Torino and 1978 suburban. The model t has been a lot of fun to work on so far and I look forward to driving it. If you have any advice for a new model t owner that would be appreciated.

Gunnar Johnson
Minnesota

[Allan]

Wow. I can understand why she had the wobbles. The spring perch will have to be replaced. The shackle has worn through the bush and half way through the perch too. Getting the perches out of the axle can be a real problem, as they can rust in. Keep us in touch with your progress and help will be available

Allan from down under.

[John kuehn]

Wow! The spring perches need to be replaced! You’re on the right track to remove the front axle assembly and completely go through it. Rebush it all.

When Model T’s ended their days the chassis usually wound up on the farm and used as a trailer. Those homemade trailers really saw a lot of abuse and the frontends suffered the most. The perch you posted looks like what you would see on a worn out T trailer.
You will be surprised when you get your back together and how different it will be in driving and handling.
Good luck with your T and have fun driving it! And remember T’s don’t have real brakes like modern cars do but I’ll bet you already know it.

[jab35]

Gunnar: Sweet Car, enjoy the ride! Pretty obvious you have good DNA compatibility for restoring and driving a model T. Respectfully, jb

[Norman Kling]

A few things about the chassis. Almost everything is oiled with an oil can so it must be oiled frequently to prevent wear and seizing. The chassis must be straight diagonally and along each rail so it does not pull to one side when driving. It can sag especially on the right side (right looking forward from the rear of the car). Both brakes and transmission tend to push down on the right side so it quite often sags right where the crankcase is bolted to the frame. You can very likely get the perch loose from the axle by using a long bar and trying to rotate it in the axle. don't try too hard or you could bend the axle. Also use penetrating oil to get as much as possible between the axle and perch. You might need to put a nut part way on the perch so it won't flare out and set the axle between two flat plates in a hydrolic press and try to press it out. After the perches are out of the axle check each hole, the two spindle bolt holes, the two perch holes. They should all be parallel in alignment with the axle to be sure everything is straight.
The club has a booklet called "Front and Rear Axles" also has one on Ruckstell axle if you have one in your car.
Norm

[John kuehn]

Here’s some information about spring perch installation. You may already be aware it can be a little tricky. Here’s an earlier post about getting them in correctly. There are lots or other posts about their removal also. They can be tough sometimes. Hope this helps. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1546270034

It might be best to heat them up for removal. The heat wrench( Oxy/Acet ) works the best by the way!

[Scott C.]

I have it's twin #13648885, only 5410 units before. Just like yours the front end was all worn out, but it still drove well. Be sure to check the steering shaft and bushing fit at the steering box. It is probably heavily worn also. Plus, you may want to address the rear axle as well. Those old babbit thrust washers will fail soon after you start driving it. Trust me I have been there done that on 3 T's. It is much cheaper to address it before they fail and destroys more parts.

[Dan Hatch]

I bet the holes in axle yoke are as worn as the spring perches.
The bottom hole have threads in them.
Better check them out. Dan

[John Codman]

My 27's front end was so bad that you aimed it rather then steered it. There was no one thing that was the problem - everything was warn a bit, and the sloppiness had about a half-dozen issues. Somebody mentioned the lower steering column bushing - that was the worst problem of all. After replacing or tightening about everything that moves in the steering system I was actually amazed at how well a nearly-100 year-old car steers and rides. One tip that is mentioned here from time to time, is that when you install the wishbone ball cap, the studs must be safety wired together. Do not use cotter pins. The pins will keep the nuts on the studs, but they will not prevent the studs from unscrewing themselves.

[CatGuy]

'One tip that is mentioned here from time to time here, is that when you install the wishbone ball cap, the studs must be safety wired together. Do not use cotter pins. The pins will keep the nuts on the studs, but they will not prevent the studs from unscrewing themselves.'

Now that is something I hadn't heard before! I think when the guy restored mine years ago he used cotter pins. Do you or someone have a picture of the wire method so I will know how to change that sometime?

[TXGOAT2]

That car looks pretty good overall. I'd guess someone just didn't oil the chassis often enough, or drove with the chassis dry and out of round tires.

[Dan Hatch]

The wires are shown in the Service Manual.

[Steve Jelf]

Pictures of the wish bone studs may help:

Model T wiring changed over the years, and so did the diagrams. This one covers 1926:

[Allan]

In the photos Steve posted, the springs are almost coilbound, ie compressed to the stage they have nothing more to give. The nuts should be wound on just enough for the wire to be installed. That way the spring is left slightly more relaxed, a.nd able to move with the flexing/twisting of the frame.

Allan from down under.

[TWrenn]

I bet the holes in axle yoke are as worn as the spring perches.
The bottom hole have threads in them.
Better check them out. Dan

Good advice Dan. I try to pass that along often, as quite frankly I'm willing to bet better than half the T's out there need the good ol' Stevens Repair done to them. Both mine are and what a difference. I've even sold a couple cars that I've had Jack repair them accordingly, and even sold off a spare axle with the same. Nothing better than a tight, safe front axle.

[Oldav8tor]

If the king pins are loose you probably need new pins and should find someone with a Stevens front axle tool to repair the axle. Check the axle for straightness as well -- it may not look it to the naked eye but most have been bent a little over the past 100 years.

[Dan Hatch]

I have not seen a good Axle for sale in years.
A few years ago people were complaining that they couldn’t find any good axles at Hershey. Do the next year I took some and fixed the holes, built up the bushing area and cut them back to standard, straightened them and blasted/painted . No one wanted them, they all said I will find a good one on the next row for $5.00.

[Daisy Mae]

Dan & I were discussing that very thing, T owners looking for that deal, but not necessarily wanting to pay the money for something solidly restored.
I myself am guilty of that. My 26 TT went through a couple restorations under my care. The first time in my early 20's, where I had more time than money & sense, and refurbished components to just "good enuf". The front axle assembly had so much slop in every component that driving that thing was always a white knuckle affair where it had a mind of its own wanting to go whereever despite my efforts. Positively unnerving...but hey, I convinced myself I had "restored" it, and therefore chalked up to being that's how these old cars were. Then, 20 years later, when I had more money and sense, I redid the front end. Night & day difference!!
I was astounded how differently she drove!!

And so, now with Daisy, I'm going thru every component with a critical eye, having been there done that. The funny thing is, with the exception of the wishbone, the 26 TT was 10 times worse shape. Daisy is not anywhere near as bad. But, I've gone the cheap route before...Daisy is getting proper attention.
When it comes to the driveline...and your own safety...cheap ain't the way to go....

[gjohnson351]

Thanks for all the good advice everyone. I'll post an update once I get it back together.

[jiminbartow]

Spring loaded APCO ball caps are great for removing slop by applying constant pressure to the ball. I have found plenty of originals on eBay. There are 2 sizes for the Model T. Smaller ones for the front end and larger one for the wishbone ball. Jim Patrick

IMG_2079.jpeg (90.21 KiB) Viewed 4473 times

[jiminbartow]

I noticed that you washed your car with a hose. Be careful that water does not flow down the window into the door where it can remain and rust out the door from the inside. That is why I always hand wash my T with a soft rag never allowing water get into the door. Also, in the 54 years I have owned her, I have never driven my car in the rain or parked it outside if it looked like rain. Congratulations and good luck. Jim Patrick

[Duey_C]

Gorgeous coupe Gunnar and welcome! You have this handled.
I too might cry about checking the rear axle.

[gjohnson351]

I had a little bit of time to work on it today. I got the spring perches half way out. I loosened them up by putting a braker bar through the hole and twisting them. And then beating them with a big hammer. They are rusted pretty good.

I do have one question. I is this wishbone ball still good. It looked a little out of round but not horrible. Just checking what you guys think.
Here are the links to the pictures.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3QqhwNNs3wAYhyD68
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2MPuufHJDyw1JCs56
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4bvynRws63y2vH1V6

[Allan]

The best check on worn balls and sockets for the wishbone is to fit the cap with no springs. If there is a rattle still, the ball/socket are well worn. You can buy new caps for the socket, and a shim in the socket may belp, but a built-up ball will be the real fix.

Allan from down under.

[John.Zibell]

The best check on worn balls and sockets for the wishbone is to fit the cap with no springs. If there is a rattle still, the ball/socket are well worn. You can buy new caps for the socket, and a shim in the socket may belp, but a built-up ball will be the real fix.

Allan from down under.

And if you can't build up the existing ball, use this. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/prod ... &cat=41901

[A Whiteman]

Hi Gunnar, Welcome to the hobby! Good to have you on board.

Best advice? -- 'Ask'

Plenty of wise words given above, working through the full steering column and gears should be next to do, then the rear axle. If the rear perches are worn like the front they need to be fixed too.

There is a wealth of advice to come but start where you are and focus on the safety items first, just like you are doing - don't cut corners in the repairs.

Looking forward to your updates, and enjoy the process,

Cheers
Adrian