Building Speedster Header from Scratch

[Henry K. Lee]

Helping a person in need (Dave Carnahan). Started with a Chaffins header plate and away we go.

Using 1 5/8" header sections with 1 1/2" chokes since he is using standard port dimensions. Section welding in form, then sand the welds (no grinding), fill again as required, and sand again as required. The end product comes out beautiful worth the time spent. Will keep the progress coming to inspire others.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[John Warren]

Looking good! Nice to see projects like this. Thanks

[Henry K. Lee]

Trying to keep up with you John! LOL.

Hank

[Henry K. Lee]

Progress report, Finished up the carbon choke (these prevent exhaust leaks at the megaphone plus easy removal).

Fabricated the rear exhaust cut out with a side dump such as the style used on Indian Motorcycles of the era

[tselliott]

Looking good, Do you just butt weld those sections together or do you put a backup sleeve inside the tube to weld?
At the header plate, are the welds just going to be on the outside or do you weld on the block side of the plate where the pipes go through the plate.
I'm just curious because I have Header Building on my "to do list"
Thanks,
Scott

[AndyClary]

Fitting a curve to a taper can test your patience. I'll try to get a picture of the header i built for my car. I welded the tubes inside the header plate and laid some silicone bronze in the outside for a little more vibration resistance.

Andy

[Henry K. Lee]

Thanks Guys! All joints are supported by an inside choke (tubing). I bevel the outside of the header plate and all outside joints, weld with a MIG for a heavy support and shaping material. Yes. Tapered joints will give you a test!

Hank

[John Warren]

Hank, can you sketch out the carbon choke. Is it just a ring of some sort? Sounds like some good engineering. Thanks.

[Henry K. Lee]

John it is pretty simple, the inside pipe reduces down by about an 1/8" towards the rear. this keeps the carbon in a slight restriction/back pressure before the seam. With the next connection going over it, you only need two sheet metal screws to hold it. I normally give a light coating of red RTV at the seam to prevent corrosion. Makes for a nice flex point since the Model T's frame has flex to it. You can may find some heavy wall pipe that will slide inside the piece you are working and pen the edge over slowly. I have a power roller which does my shrinking for me. Another method is to purchase various adapters with the edge as needed, cutting to your liking.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[Henry K. Lee]

Building continues with some added safety features, ie, heat shield for the passenger. Made from a semi truck stack guard.

Started the carving of the welds using a carbide bit with canning paraffin, keeps the bit from chattering and keeps heat down. Keeps them sharp longer too

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[John Warren]

Thanks, looking very nice.

[D Stroud]

Henry. Nice tip on useing canning paraffin on the carbide bits. I haven't heard that before. Dave

[Henry K. Lee]

More progress at the metal termite factory!

[Scott_Conger]

Hank

that is truly lovely work

[AndyClary]

Looks good Hank. Because of the vibration, I'm not grinding my welds. Since I'm wrapping the header it won't be seen. But the smooth look is very nice.

Andy

[Henry K. Lee]

Patiences and time pays off for sure. These are all made from 11 gauge pipe with the welds carefully ground and sanded all the way down to 180 grit.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[John Warren]

Looks like it just grew on there! Nice!

[Henry K. Lee]

More pictures of the completed carbon choke and mounting for the main pipe. Using an old method, with a 3 in 1 clamp, ie, clamps the guard, holds the pipe, and the mounting bracket to the body. This is a bonus system as it allows the frame to flex with no fatigue transfer to to pipe system.

The header mounting bolts are also made to be in a staging assembly, ie, installing the exhaust first, then attach the intake with the pinch clamps. Keeps from looking like an octopus.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[Scott_Conger]

Hank

am really enjoying watching the fabrication of something by someone who is really talented at his craft. 'Thanks for taking the time to document and share this with us.

And I am thinking it will take a brave man to adjust the idle on that baby...

[Henry K. Lee]

Thank you Scott, But I just fake you out Sir. It has chokes inside of the pipes for that purpose. he can remove them if he wants to up the Annie with a larger cam. I knew someone of your caliber would catch me! LOL!

Hank

[Henry K. Lee]

Scott, the heavy wall does not put out as much heat as that thin wall does, but yes burns will happen. Dave can have them ceramic coated after they season themselves as this really keeps them running cooler. I did install removable exhaust chokes for controlled back pressure with a moderate cam. Have found this controls head temp better and idle.

Hank

[Doug Keppler]

Looks like it just grew on there! Nice!

Exactly John, witnessing fabrication like this is like candy to a craftsmans eyes

[Henry K. Lee]

More detailed photos showing the 3 in 1 clamp system. Also the steps and mounting.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

[Dallas Landers]

Nice work Henry! Eye candy for sure. Looking forward to following this build.

[Henry K. Lee]

Thank You Dallas, I am just doing some custom work for a new friend in need. Will be posting some cool stuff up and coming to help others out. Need to get back on my own for awhile as the "To do list" goes!