Getting Rattles Back On The Road

[RVA23T]

Just in time to drive to Richmond's Cars and coffee this Saturday at its new location! It's only 2 hrs each way!
Congratulations!

[Mopar_man]

Robert,

You now have room for another project..., the helper just got her college car done in time! What an AWESOME Dad!

LOL

Hank

I think this is one car she will keep. The next project is my Wife's Superbee. I have to redo the wiring on that one.

[Mopar_man]

Just in time to drive to Richmond's Cars and coffee this Saturday at its new location! It's only 2 hrs each way!
Congratulations!

Hey I'm glad I got to the end of the street and back.

[Mopar_man]

Got to check the floorboards. I stepped on Reverse and the peddle got stuck. I think it's hitting the floorboard on the side. I did put new springs on the bands.

So, as I'm sitting at work Angie calls me to say she went out to the garage and found out why the reverse peddle got stuck. She found that the floor mat was making it get stuck in the down position. She also discovered that the mat was preventing the brake lever from going all the way forward. I know it's simple but happy to see her looking at a problem and figuring it out on her own.

[Scott_Conger]

Robert

she's obviously bright and talented...imagine how dangerous she'll be after completing her Higher Education!

[Mopar_man]

Starting to work out the bugs.

1. Angie cut the slots in the floor mat a bit bigger so nothing gets stuck.
2. Cut out parts of the floor board where the pedals were rubbing (then repainted).
3. Discovered that when we adjusted the parking brake we created an issue with the brake lever preventing it from going all the way into high gear without me pressing on it. Both brake rod clevis's need to be moved backwards shortening the brake rods.
4. My pack nut fell off. Got to put that back when it cools off. I may put a hose clamp on it.

On a good note the car runs great and seems strong.

My wife took her first ride. She like it.

[CudaMan]

Glad you caught the parking brake rods preventing the transmission from going all the way into high, left that way too long can burn up the high clutch.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1420743911

The vendors sell a device that clamps onto the exhaust pipe and has a tab that folds over the packing nut to keep it from backing off. It is listed as temporarily out of stock, but you could fab up your own using a hose clamp, a piece of sheet metal, and a couple to tacks from a mig welder.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/prod ... &cat=41892

[Mopar_man]

Thanks Mark! I'm going to adjust the rods tonight. My issue is that the lining on the breaks is thicker than the originals. I sanded them down already, but I'll have to find that "sweet" spot. I'll put the back on jack stands and make sure the wheels spin when in neutral as well as let the lever go all the way forward.

[Scott_Conger]

for neutral, all you need is the clutch bolt riding on the cam...that happens before the brake handle is straight up and down.

with thick linings, if you will adjust for neutral and free-rolling with the handle still a little forward, you can adjust brakes to sock down right at lever "vertical" or only slightly "back"

this will allow you to shorten the rods just enough that they won't try to buckle and keep the lever from being all the way down when driving

when you see someone's brake lever 'way back at the seat, they are running original worn cast iron shoes or very worn repops. If they work, that's fine, but they ain't got much safety cushion left

[Mopar_man]

That's a good point. Can't wait to play with it tonight. Thanks for all your help.

[Mopar_man]

All I could get done tonight was the exhaust. The pipe had slid back so I had to loosen the whole thing to put the pac nut on as well as a hose clamp. I then took off both brake rods and saw that the park lever was able to go forward more than before. Tomorrow I'll try to find that sweet spot adjustment for the rods.

[AZTerry]

Robert,

I had an issue like you with the brake shoes being to large over 15 years ago. My solution was I milled both sides of the brake cam down. I do not remember exactly how much I took off each side (.030 ??). I do remember I left the final thickness slightly larger than the diameter of the round shaft.
It did not change the length off the cam significantly. I have a parking brake that completely releases, it applies correctly and all adjustments were very easy.

Feel free to email me through the forum if you have any questions.

Terry

[Craig Leach]

Hi Robert,
The thing to keep in mind is the mechanical advantage of a lever which is greatest @ 90* so it's best to be less than 90* on the pull & greater than
90*on the pulled. Once the levers cross the 90* threshold the mecanical leverage starts going away. The farther back ( to the rear of the car the
levers are to start with the longer the the system will give good service) As AzTerry pointed out there are more than one way to accomplish this.
If the shoes are to thick then arching the shoes ( shaping them to a good fit maybe a good option ) that is determind by why the shoes are too
tight in the first place & how they fit the drum.
Just my $.0437 because of inflation.
Craig.

[Mark Nunn]

Some years ago, I believe it was Allan (from down under) who posted a photo of a clevis from a Rocky Mountain Brake that was installed in place of a standard clevis. The RMB clevis has a slot instead of hole for the clevis pin. That allows adjusting for good brake function while allowing the brake cam to self-center with the lever forward. I may try that some day. My '26 was also very finicky to get the adjustment just right.

[CudaMan]

Mark, is this "slider" clevis the part you are talking about?

https://www.modeltford.com/item/RMB-EZ.aspx

[Mark Nunn]

Other Mark,
It was like that but I don't recall it being that long. But, memory fades.

[speedytinc]

This piece is a marvelous improvement to the system.
Remember pre this part? Your brake light was left on when you set the parking brake.

Would be nice to have these made to replace the parking brake clevises.(5/16 nf threads)
That would end some of the adjustment issues with small drum parking brakes.

[Mopar_man]

I was able to get some video of what I did. Haven't driven it yet to test it out.

https://youtu.be/SrNcYBLvljE


I also got some video of the clutch pedal hitting the break lever. My guess is the pedal is bent (aren't they all?) Think I may take the rubber pad off so it won't hit.


https://youtu.be/TZsuP9rgXSU

Lot's of practice driving this weekend.

[Scott_Conger]

coincidentally saw your video before this post and came here to comment

so long as the pedal lines up with floorboard trim, it really doesn't look bent. I am going to suggest that either you or someone prior "took some bends out" of the brake lever.

Just give it a big heave-ho and shove it over in inch or so to the left and enjoy the newly found knee-room that is already naturally lacking on your year car. Two inches at the handle should clear the pedal by 3/8 or so. A 2x4 with a notch in it placed 1/2 way up the lever and then a decent size guy bucking against it is all it takes.

[Mopar_man]

I'm going to give that a try Scott. It doesn't have to move that much to clear the pedal.

[CudaMan]

On my '24, I cold bent my brake lever to the left for more leg room. If I recall, I clamped something to the lever at the level of the floor board so that the bend occurred above the floor board slot. Don't go too far, or the top of the brake lever will scrape the kick panel when in the forward position.

[Scott_Conger]

protect your drivers side interior panel with some plywood or something. It's going to take a good "over bend" to leave it where it needs to be and you don't need to slip and put a 2x4 through your nice interior

[Mopar_man]

I took another look at it and the lever in the forward position is already just starting to tough the kick panel so I opted to take the rubber pedal cover off. That seemed to do the trick. We drove it up and down the street and forgot to switch it over to Mag. Once we did we had lot's more power. I need a lot of practice driving.

[Scott_Conger]

Mark

I can't help but wonder if that is a spent air bag in your car?

[CudaMan]

LOL no, that's my newsboy cap, I hang it on the choke knob when I'm not wearing it.

[Mopar_man]

OK Guess what's missing? I've looked at the front end of this car many times and never noticed it wasn't there.

Yes I have a new set of bushings for the front and back springs.

[NealW]

OK Guess what's missing? I've looked at the front end of this car many times and never noticed it wasn't there.

Yes I have a new set of bushings for the front and back springs.

Well, maybe it won't be called "Rattles" any more after you get the bushings installed! I imagine that you will notice an improvement in how it feels when going over bumps.

[Henry K. Lee]

Well...., Oops me bad time!

All good!

[CudaMan]

Once you think you're done, check every nut & bolt for tightness and properly cotter pinned. The wishbone ball studs need to be wired together, hopefully better than the attached pic. If you use cotter pins there, the studs can still back out of their blind holes.

Same thing with the two lower U-joint ball cap bolts, they go into blind holes so their heads need to be wired together. The link below goes to a thread that talks about proper safety wire technique.

https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/4 ... 1393081993

[Mopar_man]

Once you think you're done, check every nut & bolt for tightness and properly cotter pinned. The wishbone ball studs need to be wired together, hopefully better than the attached pic. If you use cotter pins there, the studs can still back out of their blind holes.

Same thing with the two lower U-joint ball cap bolts, they go into blind holes so their heads need to be wired together. The link below goes to a thread that talks about proper safety wire technique.

https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/4 ... 1393081993

Mark and Henry,
Thanks for the response. I'm going to go over the car again. I have checked all the nuts and cotter pins and yes, my wish bone is wired together. My next project is to rebuild the front end. I already have a axel done by Dan Hatch and NOS spindles along with all the bushings and king pins, etc.....

[Mopar_man]

Look what came in the mail today from T Bay. I know most touring cars never had them but I like the way the look.

[Mopar_man]

My brother came for a visit and he came up with a few adjustments and fixes for Rattles.

First up was a new choke wire.

Then he put a washer on the carb adjustment so it wouldn't snag.

[Mopar_man]

Guess who cam home from school and helped me with an oil leak. Had to take out two blots and add some sealant. Big leak where the hogs head, oil pan, and block come together.

[Henry K. Lee]

Child labor laws do not apply! Since Mommy and Daddy are footing the bill. LOL!

Hank

[Mopar_man]

Child labor laws do not apply! Since Mommy and Daddy are footing the bill. LOL!

Hank

Well almost. She got a full 4 year Air Force ROTC Scholarship. It was fun having her home.

[Mopar_man]

Starting to put some parts for the front axel together. I was able to buy an extra axel and two NOS spindles. Took a trip to J&M Machine and John checked to see if everything fit ok. He took a burr out of one of the bushings. These guys are alway top notch.

A little paint and it looks good.

[Mopar_man]

Well Look who's back after her first semester at The University of Virginia.

I was having a bit of difficulty figuring out that you have to get the tightness on the King pin just right so the spindle is not too loose and not too tight. We also had to sand down the nuts to get the hole lined up for the cotter pins. This is an extra axel that I bought with NOS spindles so now we can take the front of the car apart and add the other bushings.

Got some video of what we did. She did figure out that the pin was moving as she was turning the wrench so she held it with a socket from the top. Ha!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCRhMKb-OOU

[Mopar_man]

Well it's been a while since we have been out in the garage. My wife and I got Covid. I wasn't that bad but had to stay away from everyone.

Yesterday we started to look at the front suspension on Rattles. I thought the King pins weren't that bad but now that I know what to look for I'm glad I got the redone axel. and the inserts from Dan. Take a look at the video and see how they looked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYp1CXsY0Bs

When putting the car on jack stands I quickly found out that I needed taller jack stands to reach the frame. So I got these.

That should hold the car. Ha!!

You can see that someone had put on these anti rattler springs on the car.

Then we started to take out all the cotter pins. Angie found out that some were easer than others.

[attachment=1]IMG_7614.jpeg[/attachment

Took off the plate to get at the bolts that hold on the spring.

[Mopar_man]

Got all the parts I needed from Lang's as well as a bushing tool to drive out the old bushings.

[Mopar_man]

Some more time out in the garage before she's off to the University of Virginia for her second semester.

First we wanted to loosen up all the nuts

Then came the wheels.

[Mopar_man]

Just got to let it down from the spring.

[Mopar_man]

Started to take apart the front axel and steering. Just to keep it all straight I took some pictures.

Found this under the spring where it attaches to the frame. Looks like someone used some old band fabric. I got the correct rubber from Lang's. The earlier cars I think used leather.

[Mopar_man]

I took some measurements of the steering balls. They are supposed to be one inch. this is what I had.

Not bad. I was surprised.

[Mopar_man]

I also took a measurement here at this adjustment so that when i put it back at least I'll be in the same ball park.

As you can see (I posted about this before) there is no bushing in the spring.

Looks like I'm also going to have to do some fitting with the steering arms. This won't fit in the NOS spindle. This one came out easy the other is stuck as are the spring perches. I know normal.

[speedytinc]

Is the NOS spindle powder coated??

[Mopar_man]

Is the NOS spindle powder coated??

Nope I painted it. No paint inside where the steering arm goes. I may have to kiss it with a drill .

[Mopar_man]

I think this will work to take a little off the hole to get the arm to fit.

Cleaned up some more parts.

[Mopar_man]

So I haven't been able to get this off yet. Not sure what the best thing is to stick in the square hole on the ball to get it to turn. I'm hesitant to put it in the vise because the tube is hollow. Any suggestions?

I was also surprised to find that the bushings on the spindles I took off the car were not that bad. The axel holes where the king pin goes were bad. Almost no threads left on the bottom.

[Mopar_man]

Then I ran into this problem. I tried on of the wheels on the NOS spindle and it didn't fit. I took a measurement of the spindle that was on the car and the NOS one and found the NOS one was just a hair bigger. Should I sand it a bit or use a big washer and the nut to seat it on the spindle? You can see the NOS one and the one I took off. The one i took off is shiny and I bet is warn.

[Allan]

Re removing the steering ball and the tie rod end, the shaft on the ball is tapered. You can hammer around the shaft to break the rust/taper and it should break loose. If not, try some heat. Put the nut on backwards, or use a plain nut to protect the thread and hammer on the end. The balls are available new, so if your ball is worn, you can get rough with the old one. Once the ball is off, you can use a screwdriver in the split in the tie rod end to open it up a tad. Some penetrant will help when screwing it off.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[Mopar_man]

Allan, victory. I did what you said and it worked. Well.... of course it did you know what you're doing, I'm just plugging along.

I also was able to press in new bushings. The tool from Lang's made this job easy.

Now for the bad part. I was using my blast cabinet and after I was done I looked around and everything was coated with dust. Apparently I need to clean out my filter bag. I bet I'll have a days worth of cleaning once the weather is good and I can move the cars outside and blow them off. Oh well. I'm going to take the spring apart next.

[Mopar_man]

Got a package from Lang's. I ordered a new ball.

Mine was just under an inch.

Then I pressed out the spring perches. The first one I did (passenger side) came out with a loud pop. The other side..... We'll see for yourself.

You see I put a nut on the end and screwed it on almost all the way.

Well that's a sad sight. Luckily Lang's had one in stock!!

[Mopar_man]

I also got my wishbone cleaned up as well as that old spring perch.

I also put the bushings in. When I pressed them in to the new perch they shaved off like when I load my black powder pistol.

[Mopar_man]

Here is an update video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ziGR1K7cZI

[Mopar_man]

First up today was painting the drag link and the wishbone.

Then as I was hoping for spring I had to settle for this.

Looks like someone used that paint that supposed to be slippery. A friend of mine had some and gave it to me. I've got to read the can and see if I can paint everything black first and then paint this under each leaf.

[Mopar_man]

Painting Painting Painting!!!

Don't worry I painted the threads lightly as well.

My plan is to paint the parts of the spring that touch each other with the Slip Plate paint.

Gonna be a shame once I make this all pretty and then slather it with grease and oil. Oh well grease and oil are your friend.

[vping]

I may do the front end this weekend. I noticed, the Rust-Oleum Farm paint. Can you comment on how it compares to the appliance and the regular gloss black? Drying, curing, leveling....

[Mopar_man]

I may do the front end this weekend. I noticed, the Rust-Oleum Farm paint. Can you comment on how it compares to the appliance and the regular gloss black? Drying, curing, leveling....

It seems to work great. I've been using a brush and it flows and settles perfect. I think drying takes a bit longer. I've got a dehumidifier in my garage so the air is dry. I've used the appliance stuff as well. this seems to work better for the big stuff. Good luck with your project. Post some pictures as well.

[NY John T]

Important! Check the axle to see if you have ANY twist in it. Now's the time to fix that if you do. Don't want to get it all together and have an "Uh oh" moment. BTW I use Rust-Oleum 2X Black spray. Paint and primer in one. Fast drying and looks great. And fast touchups if necessary.

[Mopar_man]

Important! Check the axle to see if you have ANY twist in it. Now's the time to fix that if you do. Don't want to get it all together and have an "Uh oh" moment. BTW I use Rust-Oleum 2X Black spray. Paint and primer in one. Fast drying and looks great. And fast touchups if necessary.

John, the axel was already straightened and had the Inserts installed and machined for the kingpins when I bought it. So, I'm hoping Those issues should be good.

[Mopar_man]

Just some more painting today. All the little stuff. I'll be sanding the spindles to get the wheels to fit as well as the steering arms.

[Mopar_man]

Starting to go together.

A video of the sanding of the spindles to get it all to fit.

https://youtu.be/IfOguP5vmlg

So much smoother now that it's all new. Well new bushings.

[Mopar_man]

Some More video!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DCC0OTn-yd8

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7T2oPYgufUk

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Starting to go together.

IMG_7719.jpeg

IMG_7720.jpeg

A video of the sanding of the spindles to get it all to fit.

https://youtu.be/IfOguP5vmlg

So much smoother now that it's all new. Well new bushings.

That's supposed to be a fairly tight fit. If you had cleaned the paint off of the spindle arm it might have been just about right.

[Mopar_man]

Starting to go together.

IMG_7719.jpeg

IMG_7720.jpeg

A video of the sanding of the spindles to get it all to fit.

https://youtu.be/IfOguP5vmlg

So much smoother now that it's all new. Well new bushings.

That's supposed to be a fairly tight fit. If you had cleaned the paint off of the spindle arm it might have been just about right.

Thanks for the input. I tried to get them in with no paint after sand blasting. still would not go. Even though I sanded the holes they were tight when inserted.

[Mopar_man]

Well I'm almost there getting it in and centered. I used a square and some tape to make sure I got the spring in the center of the frame.

I think I'm going to loosen up where the spring attaches and then use the floor jack to get the wishbone ball in place and wired together. This will set up my geometry with centering the spring better than the tape with a mark. I will still check it to make sure I'm dead center.

[Mopar_man]

This is what I love about this forum Scott Conger just sent me an e-mail with the following:

"It has nothing to do with measuring or eyeballing...either the square bolt head in the spring goes through the square hole in the front crossmember or it doesn't."

I told him "Thanks Scott!! I’ll take it down and make sure I line up the hole. I didn’t look for one. I’ll also make sure my blot is square in the spring. Appreciate your help."

[Mopar_man]

Tonight's job was repacking the wheel bearings. I had done this already when I first drove the car but sense I had the wheels off, and you can never have too much grease I packed them again.

My expensive tool for knocking out the grease seal. I should write SnapOn on it. Ha!!

All done and ready to go on.

[Mopar_man]

So close to completion. Angie came home for spring break and put the wheels on

She getting good at this. We've had the wheels on and off a few times. The bearings screwed on tight but the wheels spin freely.

I also used some straps, 2x4, come along, and a chain to pull the axel in place.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YFwLsi8iViE

[Mopar_man]

Didn't forget to get put the safety wire on.

Looks good now. I just have to put the steering rod on and do the alignment.

[Mopar_man]

Well tonight was one of those nights when you think you can get something done but noooooooo. Rattles had other ideas. I put the string rod on. and found out that the cavity made for the ball was worn and had some slop in it on both ends.

So now I have to take it apart, clean the grease off, and sand down the caps to get them tighter. I bet it would work ok like it is but I want to make sure that I can't move the ball around in side.

The tie rod ball is new and the pitman arm measured out at just under where it should be. So close!!!

I put this note up to make sure that my dumb brain doesn't forget the last cotter pins. I'm leaving them out so i can make adjustments as needed.

Now that it looks so pretty I can't wait to put oil all over everything and make it all messy. Ha!!

[Mopar_man]

Scott Conger suggested that I use these to keep pressure on my drag link. Ordered them from Lang's

[Mopar_man]

Got to put these on. First I packed them with grease.

Then they went on the car.

What a difference. Now when I move the steering wheel there is hardly any play.

Now for the almost bad. I was checking everything and noticed that the radius rod studs were not that far into the oil pan. Although I wired them together I'm going to double nut the threaded rod and put them in further. I also noticed that the cap was not all the way seated.

[RVA23T]

Rattles before Rattles was cool:

[Mopar_man]

Richard,
I'm trying my best but I'm thinking the name is going to come true. Ha!!!

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

You want those springs on the wishbone ball cap to be nearly collapsed. Anything less, and the springs can compress further, allowing the cap to move and the socket to open up.

It's okay if the cap is not fully seated. In fact, it's a good sign that your ball & socket are not worn out.

Running the studs in deeper is a good move. Kudos to you for spotting that!

[CudaMan]

You're doing great work, I sure hope you are able to finish the restoration in time to enjoy the car this season with your family.

[Mopar_man]

I plan on going topless for a bit. Ha!!

[Mopar_man]

You're doing great work, I sure hope you are able to finish the restoration in time to enjoy the car this season with your family.

I plan on going topless for a bit. Ha!!

[Mopar_man]

Took Rattles on a shake down run to settle in the front end. I also had a friend drive it who has been driving Model T's for a long time. He said that the bands feel good and the car feels great to drive. Noe I have to measure the Toe and make an adjustment.

[CudaMan]

Looks great!

[Allan]

Looking at the photos of the front wheels and the bearing fitting stage, I can't see that the 6 hub bolts have been peened over to stop the nuts loosening.
This can be overlooked. There is no need to delay doing it. Even if you have to tighten the nuts later, all you do is peen the bolts a little more at the time.

Allan from down under.

[Mopar_man]

Looking at the photos of the front wheels and the bearing fitting stage, I can't see that the 6 hub bolts have been peened over to stop the nuts loosening.
This can be overlooked. There is no need to delay doing it. Even if you have to tighten the nuts later, all you do is peen the bolts a little more at the time.

Allan from down under.

Thanks Allan. I'll check them.

[Mopar_man]

I got my machanic back from school. We adjusted the toe. Just had to get it 3 turns and we were at 1/4 inch difference front to back. Run out was almost non existent.

To take the measurement I got a curtain rod from Lowe's and placed it between the fellows and put some tape to keep it from moving (it telescopes in and out) and then we took the measurements.

I got an e-mail from Lowe's asking if I would write a review. I did and said that it made the toe measurement and adjustment on my 26 Model T easy and that it was now a tool in my garage. I would recommend the curtain rod to anyone who needs to make suspension adjustments. 5 stars. Ha!!!

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I see she's got a bit bloody. Now she's a real mechanic!

BTW, I like the velvet Elvis. Nothing better than high end artworks to spruce up the place.

[Mopar_man]

I see she's got a bit bloody. Now she's a real mechanic!

BTW, I like the velvet Elvis. Nothing better than high end artworks to spruce up the place.

Ha! She did get a bit scratched up but that red stuff is grease. The Elvis was bought in Korea. Every garage needs one!!

[Mopar_man]

Rattles is back on the road. First car show. OK so I had to trailer it but I did get two free starts!!

Angie got to judge the model T's

[J and M Machine]

Congratulations Rob and family!

Adjusting mag field, I know it was frustrating but free starts are worth the headache of setting it properly.
Amaze other Model Ter's . Pays dividends in doing it thoroughly.

There's a reason why we resurface the flywheel and mag field.

[Mopar_man]

Congratulations Rob and family!

Adjusting mag field, I know it was frustrating but free starts are worth the headache of setting it properly.
Amaze other Model Ter's . Pays dividends in doing it thoroughly.

There's a reason why we resurface the flywheel and mag field.

So true. Thanks to you guys!!!! Love the results. Makes a big difference when the machine work is done correctly and you guys are the best!!

[Mopar_man]

Had a real treat today my friend Steve came by with his original KRW Generator Test Meter. I didn't trust the repro gauge and wanted to see what the generator was putting out with and without lights. Got it set up to put just a small charge to the battery . I'm thinking I would rarely use headlights and if I did I may discharge the battery a bit but still make it home to put it on the charger.

I also decided to buy an extra generator and cutout just in case.

Here is a short video of the meter working. Sorry it's so loud my pac nut fell off. Ha!!

https://youtube.com/shorts/G_yW2PbrYYE

[Mopar_man]

Well I bet people may think I fell off the face of the earth. Just lots going on. I did make it out to a car show and decided to drive Rattles. It was only 16 miles to get there on some back roads. I did notice I need to adjust the toe again as is was a bit ornery going straight at speed. I only had one person pass me on a double yellow line and negotiated a big hill with a stop sign at the bottom.

This was the night before.

My wife captured the start of the trip.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZCTjAKW0cDI

Then once a got there.

[Mopar_man]

I'm going to have to take Rattles out again. I'm such a dummy it didn't check the air pressure and each tire was a 15 psi. That may make it handle a bit off. Ha!!

[1925 Touring]

Sure is a beautiful car!

[Moxie26]

30 psi and she'll be happy !

[Mopar_man]

Took Rattles on a shake down run to settle in the front end. I also had a friend drive it who has been driving Model T's for a long time. He said that the bands feel good and the car feels great to drive. Now I have to measure the Toe and make an adjustment.

IMG_7989.jpeg

[Mopar_man]

Sorry no new news yet. I have to get the top irons and wood out to start to play with.

[Mopar_man]

Well where have we been? I have to say sometimes life takes over and Rattles had to take a back seat. Angie did come home from school for spring break and we did do our first oil change. I don't have very many miles racked up yet but was surprised to see how black the oil had gotten.

My wife picks up Angie from school (UVA) on the 9th of may. and they are going to meet me at Luray. Can't wait!

[varmint]

I have an engine block from a different 4-cylinder Ford at the machine shop getting another .020" bored out because the blow-by was so bad it turned new oil black in less than 100 miles, dry carbon in the intake from the EGR, and build up on the plugs. I certainly do not wish that on you. FYI, I went to UVA too.

[Mopar_man]

Thanks for the input I'll pull the plugs next.