Getting Rattles Back On The Road

[TXGOAT2]

If the carburetor is adjusted too rich, extra soot will get on the plugs and into the oil.

[Mopar_man]

Took Rattles out for some practice. We're going on a small tour on Saturday. Just about 50 miles or so to a picnic with the Model T club. This small drive let us torque the head bolts after it was hot. We also took out the plugs and made sure they were clean. They looked good. I can also report that after sitting for months Rattles started right up and ran great!

First we oiled it up and did a safety check.

Then it was off to the drive. We were able to get it up to 39.5 MPH!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kpQ3UxUcio0


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/rqcq-2WTWN0

[EdWhite]

Awesome you have a new subscriber, we will follow along on your YouTube

[Mopar_man]

Awesome you have a new subscriber, we will follow along on your YouTube

Thanks Ed If you are rebuilding a car I tried to document it all here. This is my 26 Touring. It's been a fun trip.

[Mopar_man]

Well My Mechanic came home from school and we got a few things done. Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Life sometimes has a way pf putting somethings on hold.

First I got the clock installed. I grew up in Waltham so it was kind of fitting to get one.

[Mopar_man]

Then after taking the car out a few times I had to adjust the reverse band. This is the first adjustment I had to make. The reverse peddle went all the way to the floor and Didn't grab as well as I would like. I also found that the peddle was bent (normal for a 100 year old car) and was catching on the floor. So we cut the wood out a bit so it would clear. Someday we may bend the pedals back into shape. The floor isn't original so We didn't mind cutting it. Here are some shots and a video.

The video
https://youtube.com/shorts/e7-7T1Lw-zg

[Mopar_man]

Just got some pars in from Lang's. The first thing I'm going to tackle is the steering shaft bushing. I think I also may need a new Pitman arm and Key. It seems to be loose but I'll be able to check it better when I get it out. When I move the steering wheel very slightly I can see the shaft moving but not the pitman arm until the steering wheel moves a lot more.

The other thing I want to do is check the real axel. I used a borescope and I think I can see a bronze thrust washer on one side. I also received a lot of broken rear end parts and some Old style thrust washers that leads me to believe that they changed the washers out. I still want to take it apart and confirm everything was done right.

I'm not sure what these small disks are in the bag with the outside grease seals.

I also got these.

It says these are shims?

This is the rest of the gasket kit.

[speedytinc]

The small metal plugs are for the late rux shifter shaft.
The red are the center axle thrust fiber washers.
Yes, Shims. They are for spacing the DS out a bit if needed for a little extra gear clearance.

[Mopar_man]

The small metal plugs are for the late rux shifter shaft.
The red are the center axle thrust fiber washers.
Yes, Shims. They are for spacing the DS out a bit if needed for a little extra gear clearance.

Thanks John! I get it now. I knew about the fiber disks but I didn't know the Drive Shaft had that fine of an adjustment. I have a stock rear so I guess I won't need the small disks. Once I pull it apart I'll see what else I need.

[Tparts]

The small metal plugs are used on the rear axle housing where the aluminum cap goes. There is a small hole that allows the sleeve dimple to seat into. They go into those holes, one on each side. When installed they will make a good surface for the aluminum cap (O-ring) to seal against.

[Mopar_man]

The small metal plugs are used on the rear axle housing where the aluminum cap goes. There is a small hole that allows the sleeve dimple to seat into. They go into those holes, one on each side. When installed they will make a good surface for the aluminum cap (O-ring) to seal against.

Thanks so much Don. For the parts as well. I've got the rear axel book as well as the video.